La Marina sur Marseille

28/09/2026: Chez Etienne is an institution, and there's always a queue outside, but we easily managed to get in for dinner, arriving shortly after opening. Right from the start, they made it clear: only cash is accepted, but no problem, there are ATMs nearby. We were greeted by the mischievous yet extremely efficient Nasser, a colorful character who was always on the go and didn't miss the opportunity to gently tease my companion with the kind of cheeky banter that characterizes Marseillais in the collective imagination. We were quickly seated with other customers at a table with a red checkered tablecloth (old-fashioned decor, of course). The place filled up very quickly, with a mix of regulars and tourists. On the wall, faded photos of the restaurant's history and the celebrities who have dined there. The noise level increased as the evening progressed. It's always packed, very noisy, and there's a crazy, joyful energy all around. The oven is working at full blast, and the pizzas come out uniformly crispy (i.e., not just on the edges). The seasoning is perfect, with just the right amount of garlic and herbs. There are only two topping choices, but that's more than enough: cheese or anchovies, with the option of a half-and-half. Both are very good, but I have a slight preference for the lighter anchovy pizza. It's worth noting, because it's not obvious: the pizzas aren't sold by "dish" but by "person." So, a "2-person" pizza is equivalent to two quarter pizzas per person for two people (which is one full pizza). It also seems that there are different pizza sizes depending on the number of people. The salad is also very generous. Next to us, our table neighbors ordered cuttlefish, which looked exquisite. The meat dishes also appeared to be of high quality. Indeed, the restaurant isn't just a pizzeria; it also serves other dishes. Despite the crowd outside and the quick service, we weren't rushed to pay the bill or clear the table. The staff is unpretentious but always very attentive and helpful. Dining at Etienne's was a truly unique experience, well worth the trip.

25/09/2026: Always a treat and an institution