Fung shun sur Paris

25/01/2026: The highs: Sardines on brioche and wonton were great. The lows: - They will (im)politely bring the bill before you ask for it :) They will also apologize when confronted. They will lose a customer who'd normally consider returning. - Nothing is not tasty per se, but the excessive use of oil/fat especially in the main dishes hides all the beauty. - The room is too lit and it makes it look like a place you'd spend 10 Euros instead of 100 per person.

19/01/2026: Le Servan is a restaurant I deeply enjoy because it cooks for the palate rather than for the idea of a dish. As someone accustomed to flavours that travel across borders, I find its cuisine remarkably precise in how it chooses balance over statement. The cooking here is instinctive and thoughtful. Recipes draw from multiple culinary references, yet nothing feels demonstrative or intellectualised. What matters is how each plate arrives on the palate: the way flavours unfold, how acidity, depth and texture are calibrated, and how nothing ever overwhelms. Presentation is understated, allowing the food to speak through sensation rather than display. There is a natural generosity to the experience. Dishes feel composed with care, guided by taste memory and intuition rather than trend. One senses a kitchen that cooks with confidence, trusting the eater to understand without explanation. The atmosphere supports this approach perfectly. The room is lively but grounded, service attentive without intrusion, creating an ease that allows the meal to flow. It is the kind of restaurant where conversation and food move together, without competing for attention. Le Servan succeeds because it understands that true pleasure is not about surprise or spectacle, but about how a dish feels when it reaches the table and, more importantly, when it reaches the palate. A place of intelligence, generosity and quiet mastery, and one I always return to with pleasure