12/10/2024: Our tour of the main wine-producing areas of the Loire Valley continued with Stage 7: Saumur to Clisson (Day 9 in France). We were now based in Clisson on our first day here.
Our dinner here, on this first evening, was at this quite small restaurant just beyond the ‘Pont de Vallée’ bridge in the lower-town. We had already passed-by a couple of times on our early afternoon wanderings. Lunch service had been well underway when we called in; but ‘as we were passing’ we asked if a table was available for that evening, and happily there was.
On our arrival, in the evening, the restaurant was already half-full, and more diners arrived to fill most of the other tables. My Partner and I were immediately delighted to see that scallops were on the starter menu (we do love to eat scallops).
We enquired about wine and ordered a Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, but not a ‘sur lie’ (aged on the lees). It was also a 2018 vintage (so 6 years old), but Muscadet wine can be successful aged for up to 10 years (I am reliably informed). My Partner started with a glass of Champagne but I went straight for the Muscadet; which was very good but I have had better and prefer the ‘sur lie’ and a younger wine.
Our dinner started with a basket of bread, followed quickly with delicious and beautifully cooked scallops. Mains of filet steak, from ‘Charolais’ (white) cattle for both of us; this had a very good flavour and was very tender. Desserts were taken with my Partner choosing well, with Profiteroles sauce chocolat au caramel. My choice of dessert was less enjoyable, and I regret ordering the ‘Duo de Crémeux chocolat, streusel de cacao’ which was white and brown blobs of Crème Anglaise (custard) emulsified with white and (probably) milk chocolate. It was neither one thing or the other, and just did not inspire me.
During our meal here, two obviously local French men arrived and were warmly welcomed by the staff, clearly they were regulars. They looked a bit rough being unshaven and wearing working clothes. They didn’t order from the menu and were promptly served with a very rough-looking chicken casserole. The chicken leg and thighs were picked up and cutlery was used to roughly scrape all the meat and skin from the bone. This was then swirled into the casserole mix and ‘scoffed’. There was lots of ‘enjoyment sounds’ spoken through half-full mouths. It wasn’t particularly a great thing to observe.
After a while they finished eating and hearing us order desserts (in English) struck-up a conversation. They could both speak rough English with regular expletives thrown-in for good measure. The older of the two (probably by 15-20 years) led the conversation. He talked mainly about the bond between the French and English peoples: the comradeship that was established during the two world wars. We went on to say that the English had stood by the French, against the axis powers, when all the other European nations had not. Not a great conversation, but at the end we were genuinely favourably disposed towards them, having chattered for a good 15 minutes. We left at that point before the conversation had a chance to move on to sport and politics; e.g. Rugby and Brexit (both best avoided).
It had been a mostly great dining experience here, but at €42 for this 3-couse meal, it wasn’t too expensive at all. The service had been prompt and pleasant.
24/08/2024: Quelle belle découverte ! Dans une petite rue de Clisson , une toute petite salle et des petites terrasses étagées : tout est cosy et de bon goût. L'accueil est aussi très chaleureux.
Mais le plaisir est surtout dans l'assiette !
Noix de st Jacques à la cuisson parfaite (et purée de petits pois qui allaient très bien avec), viande à la cuisson bien maîtrisée, des accompagnements raffinés et pour finir un feu d'artifice de saveurs avec le duo de chocolats dont je vous laisse la surprise.
Un très très grand merci à toute l'équipe et notamment au jeune chef très talentueux, au patron sympathique et au jeune serveur aux petits soins. Courez y !
Notre seul regret : habiter bien trop loin pour y revenir souvent...
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