There are restaurants, and then there are others. "Others" isn't meant pejoratively, no. The Hovercraft is one of those "others." It was because I arrived in Calais and the surrounding area that I decided to explore the place. It was cold, I was hungry, and in this enforced professional solitude, the Hovercraft arrived. This is my second time there (including today). The first time was a pleasant discovery. They serve Welsh rarebit (a local specialty) like hotcakes. And the variety is impressive: a veritable encyclopedia! Rest assured, it's not tiring to read. Everything is interesting, captivating (but I'll come back to that), intriguing, and while my hunger was very strong, my curiosity was just as keen. However, allow me to put things in order. It's difficult to do so when you're so deeply moved. The welcome, first of all. The first time, I was perfectly welcomed by this waiter with a slight accent. From where? I don't care. His welcome was exactly what one is entitled to. I was waiting in a restaurant. He very kindly seated me at my table. And that's when the "waitress" arrived. Put like that now, it makes me uncomfortable. It's not that being a waitress isn't noble, but her. There's one thing that particularly touches me when I go to a restaurant: the welcome and the smile. And she, good heavens! I like kind people. And I assure you, I'm just as kind when people are kind.
However, with her clear eyes, glasses, and sublime smile, I believe she alone could elevate this establishment to new heights. The first time, I didn't dare ask her name, of course, but today, I couldn't help myself. It was difficult not to ask. Don't misunderstand me: I'm talking about her undeniable professional qualities. Her charming way of asking if everything is alright, if you need anything, if you need anything else, is, in addition to being very professional, very endearing (and I write this with all due respect to this person and this establishment). The Welsh rarebits are hearty, flavorful, and robust, living up to the menu description, befitting this true institution since 1966. Between courses, I observed the waltz of this skillful, judicious, and efficient staff. Between the waiter (the one who I was greeted by the waitress carrying trays laden with countless mugs and carafes, perfectly balanced, without trembling or flinching, and by the organizational skills of those clearing the tables after the customers have left. I am captivated. To be perfectly objective, I must also say that I was charmed by the waitress's kindness—I could just as easily call her "Isa" if that were her real name. Her smile, what can you say, would make all the difference, even with a Welsh rarebit in another restaurant. A quality dish (and at the Hovercraft, the dishes are indeed quality, kudos to the chef!) can always be similar from one establishment to another, but one major difference makes it all the more enjoyable: her smile, her beautiful eyes, her kind words, her warm attention—"Isa," if I may say so instead of "the waitress." I am won over by the Hovercraft, the setting, the The tables, filled with happy customers who came to share good times, the welcome, the quality of the dishes, the welcoming, warm, and efficient staff—and I plead guilty to returning a second time, to becoming so loyal that the owner even offered me a loyalty card, which I consider a privilege, but which is, in reality, offered to anyone who asks for it. And how could one not become a loyal customer? He unfortunately can't offer me those few years less, all that beauty necessary to try and draw attention to her, "Isa," that waitress whose magnificent gaze mesmerizes me, whose superb smile almost makes me lose all my composure. I recommend it 1000%!
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Frédéric Lesgrands-Terriens
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14 octobre 2026
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