Karachi sur Lyon

28/03/2026: At La Mère Brazier, you step into history and leave with the feeling that it continues to unfold gently. Founded in 1921 by Eugénie Brazier, the first female chef to earn six Michelin stars, the restaurant established itself as one of the pillars of French gastronomy, where Paul Bocuse, among others, trained. Today, MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) Mathieu Viannay offers a faithful yet vibrant interpretation. Tradition in motion, just like in Collonges. The welcoming pâté en croûte: precise, clean, and classic. The salmon trout amuse-bouche with kiwi and watercress coulis introduces a more contemporary touch. Next come spider crab and brown crab, enhanced with caviar for a return to classicism. A gourmet dish more complex than it appears, a true delight for the palate. Then the barbecued langoustine with braised leeks, kumquat, and langoustine head consommé introduces a more contemporary dynamic, with its perfect cooking, deep consommé, and hints of other flavors. The scallops with apple and golden turnip in green curry maintain this masterful precision, enhanced by a green peppercorn condiment that could have been a touch more incisive. The sweetbreads with miso, accompanied by a sake jus, embrace the Japanese influence more fully, a journey into the world of umami. Dominique Courbis's 2022 Saint-Joseph is very expressive, its beauty enhanced by decanting. For dessert, the promise of lightness and freshness is fulfilled. A perfectly executed passion fruit and rum soufflé and a reimagined lemon meringue tart. For each seemingly classic dessert, there are complementary dishes that confirm that tradition is accompanied by modernity. Kiwi and aloe vera for the soufflé, candied Kalamata olives and blood orange for the lemon tart. The service was slow to get going and generally felt too stiff. At this level of cuisine, one would expect more fluidity and a touch more passion. The lunch menu, offering remarkable value for money at this price point, is highly recommended. Solid cuisine that fully deserves its two stars.

28/03/2026: A Lyon gastronomic institution, far removed from the somewhat outdated clichés one might imagine! A special shout-out to the sommeliers who always find the perfect pairing!